Sudan

'Bilad al-sudan', or 'land of the blacks', is not a country to visit for remarkable tourist sites, but rather for those curious to meet the wonderfully hospitable people or interested in experiencing a culture far removed from most Western societies.

In the north, the Nubian Desert forms a large part of the country, where huge wetted clay water pots are located under every tree or shady shelter for drinking, whereas the narrow strip of land following the length of the Nile River, in contrast, is green and agricultural. The south is characterised by swamps and rainforest. Desert towns have wide, dusty roads, which remain empty for the main part of the day due to the heat. In the evenings, however, streets come alive with movement and colour, the women's vivid wrap-around clothing and hennaed fingers standing out from the crisp, white kaftans and turbans of the men.

Sudan has been afflicted by violent civil wars for nearly half a century, and more often than not makes headlines on most international news broadcasts. Yet outside these conflict areas the country is generally safe to travel in, and those who get there will be treated with extreme courtesy and friendliness. The Sudanese take Arabic hospitality very seriously and it is unlikely that a traveller will pass by without an invitation to share in a meal or to visit someone's home.

Torn into Northern and Southern Sudan by cultural and religious disputes, it is the north that occupies the largest area and includes most of the urban centres, including the capital, Khartoum. The largely Muslim, Arabic-speaking population of this area are proud of their country and will take great delight in showing it off. For those in search of what Sudan has to offer, the peaceful capital at the junction of the White and Blue Niles, and its sister city Omdurman, are good places to begin, with the National Museum, a large souq (covered market), camel market, and the Tomb of the Mahdi. To the north of Khartoum are the ruins of the Royal City of Meroe as well as the pyramids in which the kings are buried. Kassala to the east boasts a wonderful souq known for its local variety of fruit and silver jewellery, and a desert landscape dominated by jebels, or hills. The war-torn south is largely rural and lacking in infrastructure, and holds little of interest for the visitor.

Climate

North and South Sudan have very different climates. The north is made up largely of desert and is hot and dry, with temperatures reaching 110°F (43°C), while the south has an equatorial climate with high humidity and lots of rain, which falls mainly between June and November. The desert is prone to severe sand storms, known as 'haboobs'. Khartoum's temperature averages about 81°F (27°C).

Money

The official currency is the Sudanese Pound (SDG), which is divided into 100 qirush or piastres. It is advisable to bring cash, preferably in US dollars, rather than rely on credit card facilities, and travellers cheques are often not accepted. Receipts should be kept after changing money at banks and bureaux de change. Banking hours are from Saturday to Thursday 8.30am to 12pm.

Passport Visa

Most nationalities require a visa for entry to Sudan. Visitors should be aware that if their passport contains evidence of a visit to Israel, a visa for Sudan will be refused, as will entry to the country even if in possession of a valid visa. Only holders of a business visa or permit may conduct business in Sudan. Entry visas are valid for one entry only, unless otherwise stated. Extensions of stays are possible and should be paid at the Ministry of Interior. It is highly recommended that passports have at least six months validity remaining after your intended date of departure from your travel destination. Immigration officials often apply different rules to those stated by travel agents and official sources.

Entry Requirements

• US nationals require a passport and a visa for entry into Sudan.
• UK nationals require a passport and a visa for entry into Sudan.
• Canadians require a passport and a visa for entry into Sudan.
• Australians require a passport and a visa for entry into Sudan.
• South Africans require a passport and a visa for entry into Sudan.
• Irish nationals require a passport and a visa for entry into Sudan.
• New Zealand nationals require a passport and a visafor entry into Sudan.

Health

For health in Sudan, visitors should ensure they are vaccinated against yellow fever, typhoid, tetanus, polio, measles, hepatitis A and meningococcal meningitis. A yellow fever certificate is required by those arriving from an infected country. Malaria is rife, more so in the south of the country, and dengue fever occurs, so precautions against mosquito bites should be taken. An outbreak of Rift Valley Fever, spread by mosquitoes, killed over 222 people between November 2007 and January 2008. Cholera outbreaks occur. Water and food-borne diseases are common and travellers should purify drinking water and carry anti-diarrhoeal drugs. AIDS is a growing problem. Medical facilities in Khartoum are adequate for routine problems, but the war has resulted in shortage of many medicines and hospital equipment; visitors should ensure they have comprehensive medical insurance, which should include evacuation by air ambulance.

Embassy Consulates

• Sudan Embassy, Washington DC, United States: +1 202 338 8565.
• Sudan Embassy, London, United Kingdom (also responsible for Ireland): +44 (0)20 7839 8080.
• Sudan Embassy, Ottawa, Canada: +1 613 235 4000.
• Sudan Embassy, Jakarta, Indonesia (also responsible for Australia): +62 21 5200 716.
• Sudan Embassy, Pretoria, South Africa: +27 (0)12 342 4538.

Foreign Embassies

• United States Embassy, Khartoum: 249 (0)187 022 000.
• British Embassy, Khartoum: +249 (0)183 777 105.
• Canadian Embassy, Khartoum: +249 (0)156 550 500.
• Australian Embassy, Cairo, Egypt (also responsible for Sudan): +202 2575 0444.
• South African Embassy, Khartoum: +249 (0)183 585 301.
• Honorary Consul of Ireland, Khartoum: +249 (0)155 117 886.